Editor’s Pick!
From Cezanne to Picasso, and Brigitte Bardot to Karl Lagerfield and even The British Royal family, the elite crowd have always flocked to The French Riviera. But what makes this part of the Mediterranean coast off of the South of France the jewel in the crown of Cote d’Azur?
Our editor, Verity Craig, visits and discovers what this French love affair is all about
There’s much interesting history to the French Riviera, a place that was originally popular for the health-conscious using it as a retreat in the 18th century.
From the moment you step off of the plane at Nice, as the warmth and light (that is unique to the South of France) hits your cheeks, you understand why this little pocket of France has remained a gem ever since its popularity began.
I include ‘the light’ in my description, because that was exactly what attracted the aristocratic artists of post-impressionism to this area. Cezanne is said to have been the first to have noticed that the exquisite light along this coastline was an artist’s paradise. Later followed Gauguin, Van Gogh and Picasso. Needless to say, many art masterpieces have been created here.
My trip was a family holiday in August. A lover of the arts myself (and being from a family with artists and from the arts), it was an added bonus for us that there are many public places holding original art by some of the masters!
The Althoff Villa Belrose Hotel, Saint Tropez
We started out with a four night stay at the Althoff Villa Belrose Hotel, Saint Tropez. Set up on a hill, with a panoramic view of the Golfe de Saint Tropez, upon entering this luxury five-star hotel you are greeted with the beautiful view of the blue sky line meeting the crystal blue sea where the action of the superyachts takes place; something we subsequently enjoyed watching unfold and change each day at breakfast on the terrace.
Although quite a substantial hotel (by Saint Tropez means anyway), the Althoff Villa Belrose Hotel is refreshingly ‘personal.’ What I mean by that is that for example each evening upon entering the picturesque terrace for pre-dinner drinks, the General Manager Robert Van Straaten, circulates to talk to every guest as they soak up the magnificent view during the warm evenings of their vacation. The atmosphere at this hotel is calm, helpful and efficient for all your needs.
La Vague d’Or
The restaurant within the hotel, Restaurant Le Belrose, is fine dining, and faultless. However, on one special evening, we visited La Vague d’Or, a few minutes’ drive along the road towards Saint Tropez Village overlooking the opposite side of the Gulfe de Saint Tropez (drivers are provided for all hotel guests.)
This three star Michelin restaurant, is led by chef Arnaud Donckele who only uses local ingredients on his menu. Blending art, imagination and cuisine excellence, this restaurant’s gastronomy is quite exquisite yet extraordinary. Arnaude’s team (of 33 chef’s no less) create a marriage of flavours with presentation that thrust diners in to surprise and heaven all at once.
“Just like the artists who once created their paintings in this setting, we were enjoying gastronomic masterpieces that deserve much praise.”
From the onset of our arrival, enjoying canapes at a poolside table under the Saint Tropez glow overlooking the sea, we were stunned by what was presented before us. It’s not very often you worry about spoiling someone’s creation by eating it. But as we started to indulge, our taste buds were tantalised. It set the mark for what was to unfold.
Dish after dish arrived that we would ponder ‘are those pebbles edible?’ or ‘are those leaves real?’
Just like the artists who once created their paintings in this setting, we were enjoying gastronomic masterpieces that deserve much praise.
Set in amongst the most beautiful landscapes, for me, this was a dining experience that I doubt will ever be beaten.
Club 55, Saint Tropez
Club 55 is nothing less than a legend in Saint Tropez. This is the place to see and be seen. From Joan Collins and her classy crew to Bridgett Bardot (known as the Queen of Saint Tropez), they have all been seen here or are still regularly here….and you can see why. The vibe here is Boho chic. It’s set on a beach, is huge, busy, squashed…but oh it has that vibe of je ne sais quat!
“his mothers’ renowned philosophy of the business was “The customer is not King here…because he is friend!””
The club takes its name from the year it was founded by Madame de Colmont. It started as a modest wooden beach hut where she served her home cooked delights to Brigitte Bardot and the crew of a movie she was starring in on the beach Club 55 is situated. The rest as they say, is history.
These days Madame de Colmont’s son, Patrice de Colmont, is the owner running the place successfully that he grew up in.
Although some say he has brought more glitz and glamour to Club 55, he has kept its core and continued his mothers’ renowned philosophy of the business, “The customer is not King here…because he is friend!”
Dappled with sunlight due to the large trees growing throughout the restaurant and the bamboo cane roofing, this restaurant on the white sands of Saint Tropez is always buzzing in summer. And if you look really carefully across this large restaurant (it must seat hundreds), you may spy sitting in the cornered areas, regulars such as Sarah Fergusson, Piers Morgan or Beyoncé and Jay Z.
To Cannes
After a few days in Saint Tropez (which included a visit to the famous market, that I’d thoroughly recommend if you haven’t), our next destination was Cannes.
Although people often pair the two together, this must only be largely due to the geography with them being close to one another because I personally find Saint Tropez and Cannes to be very different places. One is a laid-back classy sophisticated boho-chic area of wealth (Saint Tropez), while the other hits you like a bolt of lightning with its fast pace and busy central road (Boullevard de la Croisette) full of eye wateringly expensive super cars racing up and down (making sure you see them.)
Having said that, the back roads of Cannes away from the bustle are quaint (in comparison), and The Intercontinental Carlton hotel does add that touch of chic. If not staying there, I would recommend drinks on their front veranda (make sure you book though.)
We did exactly that prior to dinner on the beach where there was a festival night taking place with dancers, acrobats and an amazing firework competition out at sea to music in our restaurant. It was a great, full-on, noisy and entertaining night…just what you expect in Cannes.
During our visit, we were staying at Le Grand Hotel (a few doors from the Intercontinental Carlton.) It was in a great central position within walking distance of everything, was clean, but if I am being critical, it was not quite up to 5-star standard and we were disappointed that, although we were aware there was no swimming pool, we assumed we could use our hotel’s beach; wrong. Unfortunately, in Cannes you have to pay (rather a lot) to use your hotel’s beach. And the public beaches are limited with space as they are reserved up to the hilt in the summer, and again are expensive for what you get.
But Cannes is fun, and the shops are great; a mix of Louis Vuitton to small independents. And of course, it must be wonderful during the film festival! Just don’t expect to relax and recharge here.
La Colombe d’Or
Travel further along the coast towards Antibe to Saint-Paul-de-Vence, and you will be transported to an artist’s paradise.
Famous for where the impressionist artists gathered during the 1920s, this quaint French village has attracted art lovers ever since.
Upon our visit, we enjoyed lunch at the Picasso-famed La Colombe d’Or restaurant and hotel.
Tucked away on a pretty cobbled lane, as you step in to the beautiful walled garden where lunch is served, it can feel as though you have been transported to the era and haunt of where famed artists once gathered.
“Famous for where the impressionist artists gathered during the 1920s, this quaint French village has attracted art lovers ever since.”
Left behind from this interesting places past, are the most magnificent original works of art by artists such as Picasso and Matisse; you’d be forgiven for thinking you had stepped in to an art gallery.
Upon our visit, as garden filled with its’ very chic diners, the atmosphere gained a somewhat French sophistication air about it; very élégante.
It’s not very often that you want to visit the bathrooms in between courses, but here, you will want to keep popping inside to view the paintings, ceramics, walls, floors and objet d’art crafted by the best.
The food also deserves a big mention, for it is nothing less than exquisite, and as you would expect in a country famed for its’ beautiful cuisine.
I look forward to returning! But then, that is the South of France all over…je suis heureux de revenir (one is always happy to return!)